Directions:

In a wide frying pan, melt enough lard to make fat 1/4 to 1/2-inch deep (or pour in oil to this depth). Set over high heat and bring to 375 degrees F on a deep-frying thermometer.

Slide 1 tortilla at a time into fat (largest ones will curve up pan sides), coating top. While tortilla is still pliable, form a rim on it, using 2 sets of tongs to guide the edges up 1 to 3 inches against pan sides.

When tortilla is crisp and golden on bottom and sides are slightly rigid (2 to 3 minutes), gently tilt it with tongs to cook each rim in oil until pale gold. Using tongs, carefully transfer tortilla to paper towels and drain, cupped side down.

(If you fry the shells ahead, let cool, then individually wrap airtight in plastic wrap. Store at room temperature for up to 2 days.)

Prepare fried chorizo, if desired, by removing casings from 1/2 pound of chorizo sausages; crumble meat into a wide frying pan. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring until meat is browned; discard fat. Use meat hot or cold.

Sprinkle cheeses evenly inside shells. Distribute chile strips and chorizo (if using) over cheese. Place 1 shell at a time on a slightly larger baking pan.

Bake, uncovered, in a 350 degree oven just until cheese is melted (5 to 7 minutes). Slide tortilla onto a platter; garnish with cilantro and a cherry pepper, if desired.

While 1 tortilla is being eaten, bake another.